Anyone who has taken asparagus in a restaurant ever found, often with the question of “mayonnaise or vinaigrette?”, As if there were more possibilities. Even in the letters announcing “two sauces asparagus”.
Mayonnaise or vinaigrette. They are two of the sauces called “mothers”, derived from many others. The sauces are to the kitchen what the music orchestration: can turn a simple melody into something sublime or a horror. Hence its importance. In sauces, cook it plays.
Maybe that’s why so avant-garde cooking sauces flees. I remember when he first came Spain Michel Bras, a cook at the time (pre-Adriatic) breaker, it did not follow traditional patterns. Prepared a wonderful menu in the Contest of Alta Cocina de Vitoria. Filled to the brim.
Dinner very correct … Dry. No sauces, I mean. One attendee said, “but … no one here wet”. And no. There was.
A sauce is the honor of a kitchen. Julio Camba already said: “No soup for you let a false concept of the correction, it is incorrect to return to the kitchen, without testing it, one of those sauces that grace a home.”
It’s true. Wetting we all love. In Spanish, a form of praise that is something strongly “is making bread and dip.”
Most large cooking sauces come from the bourgeois, ie French cuisine. A sauce can not be improvised: the product of an investigation, which could take an intuition, but requires physical and mental development and numerous tests. When sauce comes to the table, cards, must be more than proven. With this, the experiments with gas.
That’s another reason I no sauces abound in the media chefs creations. They do not like to go to the classical repertoire, always want to be original, and therefore does not offer great sauces, but things of their own creation, desengañémonos, very difficult to pass to future cookbooks or the history of cooking.
The classic sauces are appropriate for every occasion. For something is there. No immovable, but with its own rules. It is important to every nuance, every ingredient, will set the tone of the dish. A good salsa is, by definition, a good cook.
Let’s go back to the beginning. Surely someone thought of combining the two great classics, mayonnaise and vinaigrette: He thought “let’s make a sauce that has the texture and taste of mayonnaise vinaigrette.” From an idea emerged gribiche sauce, with whom I met again a few days ago … accompany a magnificent beef tongue. The gribiche get along with offal: tongue, hands of beef or lamb, veal head …
Has your technique. We must crush well and sift a little hard egg yolk, and reduce it to fine paste. Some people get that “just hard” mixing two egg yolks cooked with a hangover.
This paste is gradually mounted with olive oil as a mayonnaise ligand. When you have the right consistency, it will add a couple of tablespoons of vinegar, plus salt needed. So far the base. But usually add a pinch of mustard, parsley, chervil and tarragon finely chopped and finally boiled egg diced. It is served cold. A great sauce, typical of a large kitchen. And a great idea.